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Category Archives: Tribal India

Death of a Gond Queen

03 Tuesday Jun 2014

Posted by opus125 in Madhya Pradesh, Tribal India

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bhopal, Dost Mohommad Khan, Kamla Park, Madhya Pradesh, rani kamlapati, Tribal India

kmlapati palace

Leaving the bus at Kamla Park, I am reminded of Bhopals Tribal heritage.

The indigenous peoples of the Malwa were the Dravidian Ghonds and Bhils.  The Gonds were mainly peasants while the Bhils were hunters and the Aryan Rajputs and Marhattas had dominated the region before the arrival of Islam.

With their own language the Gonds had their own idols and eventually assimilated into Hinduism. A gond-raja warlord ruled over both Gonds and Bhils.

 The meat eating Gond’s preferred to remain distinct from Aryan Hindus, particularly Brahmanism. Ethnically Dravidian they remained separate  from the succeeding layers of Hindu and Muslim settlers who had forced them to south and central India.

ghond palace

 So, a history of Bhopal though is incomplete without recognising the contribution of the Gond people, who were recognized by the Begums.

The famous forts of Ginnor and Chowkigarh were initially built by  Gonds.

Nawab Hayat Mohommad Khan adopted two Gond boys, the future Dewans Faulad Khan and the more infamous Chottey Khan.

To this day senior Gond families till retain land rights to larger properties or jagirs granted them by the Begums.

But as I walk around Kamala Park, there is a more haunting legend.

The famous Gond, Rani Kamlapati built the seven storey palace overlooking the lower lake.  Legend even claims  that the 16th century queen spent moonlit  nights floating on the lower lake in a lotus shaped barge. Kamala is Hindi for lotus.

Dost Mohommad Khan founder of Bhopal State

Dost Mohommad Khan founder of Bhopal State

She hired the Afghan mercenary  Dost Mohammed Khan, to avenge the murder of her husband, Nizam Shah Gond. Dost deposed her, founding his own dynasty, but the exquisitely beautiful queen declined life in his harem, and jumped into the upper lake rather than lose her honour.

 So as I walk around Kamala (lotus) Park, by the palace ruins, I am reminded of the scary tales that keep children awake from the parks southern shore.

 

view from Kamlapati Palace

view from Kamlapati Palace

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Reflections on Adivasi and New India

22 Thursday May 2014

Posted by opus125 in India, Tribal India

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Adivasi, India, Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya, Madhya Pradesh Tribal Museum. Bhopal Tribal Museum, Tribal India, tribals

Source: Indiatogether.org

Source: Indiatogether.org <http://indiatogether.org/johar-reviews&gt;

The word Adivasi literally means “original inhabitants” a people who risk being forgotten in the shadows of Indias rising economy. Now classified as scheduled tribes under India’ constitution, the term Adivasi is difficult since centuries of cultural exchange make it difficult to define them surrounding castes.

To this we can add the ill effect of the colonial pseudo science of anthropmetry. Racist Colonialists  was used spread ideas of a shared Indo-Aryan share racial origin. Whether Aryans were a distinct race or group of tribes I will let the historians decide. However, the idea was grabbed  by upper caste to emphasize distance from original peoples.  Buttressed by ideas of caste pollution or purity, Tribal’s are often seen as anachronistic fringe dwellers,  called savage or backward  by Hindu, Muslims or Christians if unconverted.

Even today, poor Adivasi in western India discouraged from sitting in front of bus if upper caste Hindus travelling. Their women typified as promiscuous  and subject to sexual harassment. I find this ironic since my experience has seen  many promiscuous upper caste  making a public appearance of being moral examples.

While the term Adivasi may be difficult and imprecise, international law has given a legitimacy hard to ignore. India is a signatory to the  1957 International Labour Organisation sought to protect “indigenous and other tribal and semi-tribal populations” that protects Adivasi under provisions five and six.

Since then India added the Panchayati Raj Act for Scheduled Areas (PESA)  inspiring some Adivasi to lay claim to their traditional resources both material and symbolic.

Adivasi lag behind income, literacy, life expectancy, and infant mortality. The welfare state has failed them.  The post colonial society has deprive them of their land based, forest economy.  Resources such as minerals are mined and rivers dammed.

Many are now seasonal labourers.

There is a stark difference of bazaarias (towns people, upper caste Hindus, Muslims) but for some educate Tribals the difference is less defined.  Wealthier Adivasi families may send a son (rarely a daughter) to school.

He hangs out in chai or coffee shops, or cigarette and paan kiosks, looking  ‘cool’ in bazaaia life. It appears more egalitarian. More probably it is subsidised from a home proud of their white colour child who feels the contempt of other city dwellers.

Lacking the connections or academic qualifications for hard to get government t jobs he scrounges for work driving jeeps, and running petty trades while trying to strenuously avoid manual work. .

Bazaaria life may appear cool, but the unending promise of urban comforts are an illusory drain on the wallet.

Their are also inter tribal distances in the village. Bhil, Bhilala and Tadvi keep a strict distance in marriage and food . The Bhilalas, who have greater economic and political resources  will not accept water from Bhils whom they derogatorily call padkhadya (beef eaters).

Also there are differences among the powerful Chaudhiris in Gujurat and the Meenas in Rajasthan.

Source: Odoshan.com

Source: Odoshan.com <http://odishan.com/2279/adivasi-mela-re-tribal-dance-navarangpur-4&gt;

Will Adivasi’s fit in the new India?

As Adivasis attempt to move forward, some urban commercial upper caste Hindu question whether those Adivavasi converted to Islam or Christianity can be considered indigenous.

I have no personal view on the rise of Indian nationalism. I live in the BJP controlled state of Madhya Pradesh and while their has been some issue by some suspicious of me as a foriegner, my experience has been remarkably positive.

Madhya Pradesh (MP) capital Bhopal proudly show cases the India’s Tribal diversity with the Tribal Museum ad the Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya (IGRMS).

Still, it is easy to be romantic of the past. It is easy to blame British or Muslim invaders “corrupting” a tribal purity.  For example, nationalist Sangh Pariwar consider Hinduism India”s original religion and Christianity and Islam colonial intrusions.  Although mainstream historians suggest masculinised Aryans were themselves foreigners who conquered earlier   Dravidians and, according to Vardana Shiva, destroying the more inclusive Matrisitc feminine Tribal culture.

What of the question of national and tribal identity with the change of India’s new BJP government?  Philosophically attached to the  Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh (RSS), teaching  dedication to ‘Selfless service of the motherland’. During the anti colonial period, M S Golwakar advocated that the boundaries of nation (rashtrabhoomi) coincide with Motherland (matribhoom) and Sacred Land (punyabhoomi)could only be applied to Hindu’s. Muslims look to Mecca and Christians to the Vatican, as if their primordial loyalties will always subordinate loyalty to India. In the past there have been reports of RSS cadres attempting to turn Hindu Adiivasi  on their non Hindu brothers.

The suspicions of non Hindu Adivasi remind me of how in 1962 people feared US president JFK would be controlled by the Pope.  Now Americans  laugh at it.  The word wide rise of nationalism, accompanied by economic downturn,  is increasingly polarising the world.

Travelling between India and Australia,  I find Indian peoples that include Modi supporters whether the new RSS government of Nahendra Modi will undermine India’s tradition of inclusion.  Frustrated by the perceived failures of a corrupt Congress, they still hope political realities will tone down any claims of  combined nationalism, religion and Fascism.

It is my prayer that Tribal harmony will be stronger than short term spasms of nationalism.

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Saving the Tribe

05 Monday May 2014

Posted by opus125 in India, Tribal India

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

bhopal, iGRMS, India, Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya, Poorvotsav 2014, Tribal India

Poorvotsav 2014 Bhopal

Tree frames lit in hues of Jasmine, Green and Reds silhouette cloth backdrops of tan and neem  Above, lilac, saffron and gold hang like coloured prayer flags.

The air is cool now.  Jupiter rides high above a quarter moon. An hour before, the harsh glare of sweat exploded in downpour over the old city. Lightening forks distantly, a madrassa of white skull capped youth find their mosque as dust blows over the blackened complexion of a prone street dweller by Kamla Park. Then the rush of rain flushes the air as I find shelter and coffee at Park View Fast Food Restaurant .

Poorvotsav 2014, Bhopal

Now,  as I admire the strength and agility of tribal dance I wonder whether good intentions are enough to save Tribal Culture.

A series of dancers where hats bound by strands of upright flowers. I am struck by the unity of design as much as by the variation f nature. The hats are not the factory designs of microscopically perfect regularity. Flower stems, like nature, have their own fractal chaos, that reminds me of the recursive ascension to mount Meru depicted in a Hindu temple roof, or the internal search within the  unadorned inner sanctum, garbhagrha, or  “womb room”, to be reborn again.

Poorvotsav 2014, Bhopal

The central energy of folk art is spiritual in an increasingly material world. This, wrote Doctor Narmada Prasad Gupta, has resulted in material and spiritual seen as antithetical opposites, like black and white. The natural and simple life is being lost because we have lost the purity of life that sees material and spiritual as an organic whole.

It is easy to be romantic of the past. It is easy to blame British or Muslim invaders “corrupting” a tribal purity. Others, like Vardana Shiva, suggest the masculinised Aryan invasion, conquered the more inclusive Matrisitc cultures that preceded them.

The village is no longer distant from the politics poverty, exploitation and manoeuvrings.

Tribal life found strength in its diversity, which modernity threatens to homogenise. The masculinised cultures likes to simplify, but nature, and the tribes dependent on her,  thrive in diversity.

So I am torn.

The wonderful beauty of tribal dance, performed so stunningly at the 3 day Poorvotsav, a North Eastern Tribal Dance Festival, at ,the Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya (Igrms) Bhopal leaves me in awe and sad.

Poorvotsav 2014 Bhopal

The explosion in interest in Tribal art is a beautiful here in Bhopal.  However, unless the elite see beyond nature destroying production the Tribes will not survive.

Tribes thrive in the rich natural havens of mountains, rivers and trees. In our technologically destructive world, where life styles corrupted and ruined

Every day in the City of Lakes green farmland is being shredded into another apartment block.

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While showing wonderful dance and art in a city centre is marvellous and important does it support the thousands of practitioners of the art in a distant village? A short recording does wonders to promote an art to an unknowing urban audience yet also risks losing the hundreds of subtle variations of a dance unrecorded elsewhere.

Then there is the onslaught of Bollywood, as beautiful as that is in itself.. The travelling performers of Rajasthan for instance have complained people want renditions of the latest glitzy movie and no the unglamorous traditional performers.

I am in awe every tribal performance I visit here.  The bright red frocks sashed in tan are beautiful. The men in black tunics and white pyjama are a delight. The incredible musculature of a woman aching backward stuns me. Without the support of her hands another dances on her stomach.

As I return home, a lift offered me by a local near to my Shahpura home, he asks me if I attend church, pointing out the Campion church near home. I politely decline but thank him for the thought.

My thoughts ask instead how we can inclusively keep alive – indeed help make thrive – the knowledge, experience and folk sensitivity that is Tribal India.

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.

Images for this post are supplied from the IGRMS, Bhopal.

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Museum of Mankind: Bhopal’s Tribal Paradise

28 Friday Feb 2014

Posted by opus125 in India, Tribal India

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iGRMS, India, museum of mankind bhopal, Tribal India

Tribal Dance 155res

When I first arrived in Bhopal, I was thrilled by Madhya Pradesh verdant green,  large wildlife reserves shared by MP’s Tribal people. An eco-tourists dream, Tribal’s represent 20% of the states population. So it is no surprise to find the Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya Museum of Mankind in the capital city Bhopal. A beautiful laid back 200 acre open air anthropology exhibit over looking Bhopals Upper Lake.

The iGRMS is the largest museum of its type in India. It includes life size huts life reconstruct tribal life from all of India scattered over a wide area and. the indoor Museum of Mankind, exhibiting human evolution, culture and India’s Tribal people. A small cafeteria offers you chai to seep into tranquillity. Themed ‘Diversities of India’s cultural patterns and the underlying unity’, the museum celebrates the ‘simultaneous validity’ of various valuable cultural patterns evolved over thousands of years. A gallery of tribal history from the four corners of India, it is appropriately located in Bhopal, as twenty percent of Madhya Pradesh population is Tribal. IGRMS Bhopal, Tribal Village

The Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya is not only a living working model of tribal life, but hosts cultural performance and dance, exhibitions, artist workshops and educational programs. It is ideal for families, and students. More like a park than a museum it’s a beautiful spot for a picnic. In my frequent visits  to Bhopal I have enjoyed spectacular performances of Tribal and Kathak dance. In 2012 hosted Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya a workshop for traditional and herbal therapies used by Tribal people, a three day Tribal dance Festival and a Festival of traditional Indian dance.

Sadly this beautiful centre is missed by most tourists .The regular cultural evenings are poorly advertised meaning that tourists do realise that Bhopal is a cultural centre. Close to the State Museum of Madhya Pradesh, off Science Centre Road, in Shymala Hills, TT Nagar, Bhopal, Madhya Pradesh. Also annoying spelling errors mar the indoor museum – common even in Government buildings and document. It has the feel of a work in progress. Still, on the whole, it is beautiful and engaging.

Hours are from March to August 11.00 to 18.30 and September to Feb 10.00 to 17.30. Open every day except Mondays and National Holidays.

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Entrance Fee:

10 rupee for adults 5 rupee for children to 12 years or students with an identity card. Foreigners pay 100 rupees. Group discounts may apply for recognised educational organisations. Festivals and cultural evenings are usually free. Close to the Museum of Madhya Pradesh, off Science Centre Road, in Shymala Hills, TT Nagar, Bhopal, Madhya Pradesh.o the Sta Slightly out of the way, in this very rural of cities, a car or auto-rickshaw is probably a best choice from the Bittan Market, or 12 Number, from Main Road, cross TT Nagar Road, and continue into Science Centre Road. Your trip should be life changing, not just a holiday! For a life changing eco-tourism experience, click here.

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A Camel walked up my drive way

17 Monday Feb 2014

Posted by opus125 in Madhya Pradesh, Tribal India

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

bhopal, Madhya Pradesh, nomads, stray camel

Today a camel walked down my drive way. A stray camel, perhaps lost from one of the moving herders from Rajasthan.


Either way it sauntered in but finding a dead end down one of the colonies streets splayed is legs apart, tail swishing nervously, as I negotiated around it to direct it outside.
It angry glare over a shoulder reminded me to keep from kicking range. A deep gurgling as it threw out its dulla, a hollow throat sac it throws out in a display of male dominance, It’s stinky and rather ghastly sounding. Again strutting off  he turns, deeper into the colony, and lunched on a neighbours roses before I maneuvered it to the exit. Then, strutting out  a dog finally decided to try and appear heroic.


So I am reflecting how beautiful it is that Madhya Pradesh has so many Tribal’s and that  the shepherds, parked just around the corner of my home, can roam free through the capital city of Bhopal.

Yes, it can be a pain when a herd blocks the road, or a railway crossing, but it is beautiful. Beautiful because nature is still at your doorstep.

Then, a I cycle off to  buy milk, that all this is threatened. Where the shepherds parked only  last week, there is now a dirty big hole: foundations for yet another society building ripping up good farmland. At least corn still grows opposite. The shepherds ae there but shunted off into the distance.

Unfortunately, owners of rental farmland make better money from the disease of urban sprawl.

Cornered, he turns his back on me, twitching his tail and dominantly spewing his dulla.

 

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To sing the language of birds and waterfalls

04 Wednesday Dec 2013

Posted by opus125 in India, Madhya Pradesh, Poetry, Tribal India

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Adivasi, India, Kathotiya Jungle Camp, Madhya Pradesh, tribals

KathotiyaJungle 049res

Chai at Kathotiya Jungle camp outside Bhopal

I pray the Adivasi will never forget to sing
the language of birds and waterfalls
To you they are birds
to me they are voices in the forest
the land grammar of my soul
Pragmatic, poetic
house of my being
a carrier of meaning
loud with voices of place and villagers 

Kathotiya Jungle Camp

23.259933 77.412615

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